Lactic Acids and Retinoids: Everything You Need to Know About Layering the Two
Written by: Lucy Partington
Updated on: 21 May 2024
Lactic acid and retinol are two excellent skincare ingredients that you’ve likely heard of. The former is a gentle AHA that’s steadily growing in popularity and is now being used within a range of products, while retinol is a form of vitamin A known to have incredible youth-boosting benefits.
Both ingredients are great in their own right, and while you can use them together in the same routine, it’s important that you do so properly in order to maximise efficacy and reduce the chances of any irritation occurring.
Keep reading to learn more about both lactic acid and retinol, what skin types they are best for and the ideal ways to incorporate both into your skincare routine.
What is lactic acid?
Lactic acid is part of the alpha hydroxy acid family (AHA) and was once derived from milk, although Medik8’s is produced via fermented carbohydrates. It’s known for its gentle exfoliation properties, which helps to remove dead skin cells and encourage skin cell turnover. It’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, and it has additional hydrating abilities that not all exfoliating acids have, meaning it will help to boost skin’s overall moisture levels, working to improve both texture and tone.
Key benefits of lactic acid
✓ Exfoliation
✓ Speeds up skin cell turnover
✓ Brights and smooths the skin
✓ Improves texture
✓ Helps keep skin moisturised
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A. Known and loved for their unrivalled age-defying benefits, they work to help accelerate skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, as well as having a myriad of other great benefits that just about everybody can take advantage of. They are found in various forms, including retinol and retinal, both of which we champion here at Medik8.
Key benefits of retinoids
✓ Ability to increase collagen production which reduces fine lines and wrinkles
✓ Increase skin’s firmness
✓ Promote skin cell turnover for smoother skin
✓ Fades hyperpigmentation and sun spots
✓ Reduces pore size
Retinaldehyde: The everyone vitamin A
Crystal Retinal is Medik8’s most-loved vitamin A serum that we recommend to almost everybody. Championing retinaldehyde, one of our favourite ingredients, it works faster than traditional retinol and is less likely to cause irritation. Plus, it has a whole load of other benefits worth knowing about.
Lactic acid vs retinol
Both lactic acid and retinol have a similar effect on the skin but it’s important to note that they are different and, as a result, they both work in different ways.
Lactic acid works on the surface of your skin, dissolving the bonds that glue dead skin cells together which helps them shed faster. In contrast, retinol encourages the production of fresh new skin cells and speeds up how quickly they travel to the surface of your skin.
So, thanks to the individual ways in which these ingredients work, they create a great pairing and using both together can actually help enhance their efficacy. Plus, both lactic acid and retinol work to help hydrate skin – the former is a humectant that draws water into skin cells, while the latter promotes skin cell turnover and collagen production, which can enhance the skin's ability to retain moisture and improve the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid when applied topically.
Is lactic acid or retinol better?
Neither ingredient is better than the other, it simply depends on what your own skin type and concerns are as to which you choose to use.
Lactic acid: Best for sensitive skin, improving texture and exfoliation
If your skin is particularly sensitive, lactic acid may be the exfoliating ingredient that your routine is missing, but all skin types can benefit from using it. It works to help strengthen the skin’s delicate barrier by encouraging ceramide production, which is key for a healthy complexion. It has also been shown to help improve signs of sun-damage, which includes concerns like fine lines, wrinkles and a rough-to-touch texture.
Lactic acid comes in various forms, from cleansers and serums to moisturisers and toners, so you can find something that’ll slot perfectly into your routine.
Retinoids: Best for age-defying, visibly noticeable results
There is no skin type that won’t benefit from using retinoids. At Medik8, our hero product is Crystal Retinal, a hardworking serum that heroes retinaldehyde, an ingredient that works 11x faster than traditional retinol* for some seriously impressive, visible results in minimal time. It works to help encourage skin cell turnover while stimulating collagen production, as well as targeting the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and any sun damage or other forms of hyperpigmentation.
Can you use retinol and lactic acid together?
Yes, you can use both retinol and lactic acid together. While they are both powerful and effective ingredients in their own right, they can be even more effective when they are used in sync and you’ll notice improved texture and a reduced pore size.
Plus, using them together can help prevent breakouts in oily and acne-prone skin types, while those with mature, dull or dry skin will see a brighter, more hydrated and fresher-looking complexion. It’s also a great duo for anybody with sensitive skin as there is less likely to be any irritation caused, especially in comparison to other active ingredients.
Who can use lactic acid with retinol?
While some skin types are suitable to use a combination of lactic acid and retinol in their routine, there are always potential side effects and risks to be aware of when using them, namely redness and sensitivity, and so you may find that it’s better to use one or the other, or to alternate ingredients. It’s also advised that you do a patch test in a small area 24-48 hours before applying either product all over your face.
How does retinol compliment lactic acid?
Combining retinol with lactic acid can have a synergistic effect on skin, which can lead to more obvious skin improvements. Lactic acid prepares the skin by exfoliating and removing dead skin cells sitting on the surface, which in turn works to help enhance the penetration and effectiveness of retinoids. Together, that can result in smoother, more radiant skin with a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and an overall improved texture.
How should I combine retinol with lactic acid?
✓ Choose the right products
✓ Always start slow and build up product usage. We recommend introducing one of the ingredients into your routine before incorporating the other, or if one is used already slowly incorporate the second ingredient
✓ Begin with lower concentrations. This is important if you’re a beginner, or if one of the ingredients is new to your routine.
✓ Alternate usage – use each ingredient separately for a few weeks before combining both in the same routine, and then begin with alternate days of use, leaving a few days between each product.
✓ When combining both on the same day, use lactic acid first and let it absorb before using retinoids, or use lactic acid in the morning and retinoids at night.
✓ Always wear SPF as they are both sensitising ingredients.
Keep skin hydrated by using hyaluronic acid serum and moisturiser.
✓ Remember that when it comes to seeing results, patience is key.
Ensure the ingredients works with your skin by keeping an eye out for any irritation or sensitivity that may occur.
Medik8’s recommended lactic acid and retinol routine
Cleanse: Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanser
Our bestselling cleanser, it’s formulated with a unique AHA/BHA complex that effectively cleanses your skin while offering the gentle exfoliation benefits of lactic acid. Massage into damp skin, rinse off and pat skin dry.
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Treatment: Medik8 Crystal Retinal
Once skin is dry, apply a pea-sized amount of serum, avoiding the under eye area (Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye can be used around that area).
SHOP NOWTreatment: Medik8 Intelligent Retinol Serum
If you prefer a silky, oil-like texture, switch out Crystal Retinal for our Intelligent Retinol Serum. Applying a couple of drops into the palm of your hand and pressing it into the skin.
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Moisturise: Medik8 Advanced Night Restore
Once your retinoid has absorbed, apply a moisturiser. Medik8 Advanced Night Restore has been formulated to be applied after vitamin A, and it works to help deeply nourish and firm skin while you sleep.
SHOP NOWFinal thoughts
In summary, both lactic acid and retinoids are effective ingredients that most people will benefit from including within their skincare routine. Together, they can work to hydrate skin while targeting fine lines and wrinkles and delivering a fresher-looking, smooth, radiant complexion.
It’s important that you introduce each ingredient slowly into your routine and keep an eye out for any irritation or dryness that can occur when you’re using new skincare products. By gradually incorporating both lactic acid and retinol, you can achieve a balanced and effective routine that promotes healthy, glowing skin.
FAQ's
As a general rule, you should apply skincare in the order of their texture. Start with the thinnest, most watery mists, essences and serums and work up to thicker moisturisers.
It depends on your skin type and your main concerns. At Medik8 we recommend Crystal Retinal for most skin types, and lactic acid is good to help exfoliate dead skin cells away and hydrate skin.
Generally speaking, yes, but it depends on your individual skin type. If irritation occurs, stop use and gradually phase it back in once your skin has recovered.
It depends on your skin type, but in many cases using an exfoliant, like lactic acid, alongside retinol can help boost results.
Use a lactic acid-based cleanser, like Surface Radiance Cleanse, then layer on a hyaluronic acid serum before applying your retinol of choice.
Neither one is better than the other, it just depends on your individual skin type, needs and concerns.
All of Medik8’s exfoliating acids are formulated to work in sync with vitamin A as it helps to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier, leaving it more resilient to higher levels of vitamin A.
It depends on your skin type, needs and concerns, but most people should be able to use retinol and lactic acid in the same routine.
Lucy Partington
Lucy Partington has been a beauty editor for over a decade and has written for titles including Stylist, Cosmopolitan, ELLE, British Vogue and GQ Middle East. She loves trying new sunscreens, cleansing her face at the end of a long day and is on a constant quest for glowing skin.