Which Retinoid Strength Should I Use?
Written by: Heleayner Davies
Updated: 11 April 2024
Known as the gold-standard in age-defying skincare, the benefits of retinoids (vitamin A) go further than helping to visibly reduce signs of ageing. Each vitamin A derivative has its own group of unique benefits that are suitable for specific skin types and concerns. In fact, some have additional qualities that you may not expect - such as helping to reduce the appearance of blemishes.
With many different types of retinoids available, it is important to make sure that you’re well informed about the different types of vitamin A molecules before you make a purchase, to ensure that it is the right formula for your skin’s own unique needs and concerns.
Retinoids and their role in skincare
‘Retinoids’ is the umbrella term for all vitamin A molecules in their different forms. Praised for their youth-renewing benefits, retinoids help to accelerate skin cell turnover and support collagen production. In doing so, they help to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, visibly fade dark spots and improve the skin’s radiance and texture for a more youthful-looking complexion overall. Some retinoid derivatives (retinal) have antibacterial properties which can help to reduce the appearance of breakouts to leave the skin visibly clear and clarified.
At Medik8, we use 3 main types of retinoids; retinol, retinaldehyde (retinal) and retinyl retinoate. All our vitamin A formulas are infused with Time Release and stabilisation technologies to gradually infuse the active into the skin throughout the night for minimal irritation. Available in a variety of progressive strengths - whether you’re a beginner, expert or advanced vitamin A user, our innovative formulations allow you to work your way up for progressive visible results.
Which retinol strength should I use?
Known as ‘the classic vitamin A’ retinol is a well-known and popular vitamin A derivative that is featured in many skincare formulations. Along with all other derivatives of vitamin A, retinol helps to stimulate skin cell renewal to visibly improve the skin’s texture, tone and radiance for a more youthful-looking complexion. When retinol is applied to the skin, it first converts to retinal and then to retinoic acid. At this stage, the ingredient becomes ‘active’ on the skin, and this is when visible results begin to take place.
At Medik8, our retinol
formulations start from 0.2%-1% retinol.
✓ Retinol for beginners: Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream, Intelligent Retinol 3TR
✓ Retinol for expert users: Intelligent Retinol 6TR
✓ Retinol for advanced users: Intelligent Retinol 10TR
Low strength retinol - 0.2%-0.3% retinol
If you’re a retinoid beginner, it is important that you start by using a product containing a low concentration of vitamin A, as retinoids may cause your skin to experience some mild irritation, dryness or redness - especially if you apply it too frequently or use too much.
Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream: Featuring 0.2% retinol, this two-in-one retinol night cream is perfect for those who want a simple evening routine and a visibly smooth, hydrated and youthful-looking complexion.
Intelligent Retinol 3TR: Featuring 0.3% retinol, Intelligent Retinol 3TR is the perfect entry-level product for retinol beginners who prefer a silky, oil-like texture.
Medium strength retinol - 0.6% retinol
Intelligent Retinol 6TR: Expertly created with 0.6% retinol, this medium-strength retinol serum is the perfect product for experienced retinol users who want to take their age-defying results to the next level.
High strength retinol - 1% retinol
Intelligent Retinol 10TR: Our highest-strength retinol serum formulated with 1% retinol, that’s suitable for advanced retinol users who want to supercharge their visible age-defying results.
How much retinol to use?
Retinol application should be phased-in gradually. Therefore, if you’re a retinol beginner, we recommend that you start by using your chosen product twice a week for the first 2 weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night.
How to use retinol
At Medik8, we always recommend using your chosen retinoid product as part of our innovative CSA Philosophy. Clinically proven and grounded in science, our CSA Philosophy is our simple approach to healthy, youthful-looking skin for life. It’s as easy as using vitamin C plus sunscreen in the morning and vitamin A (retinol/retinal) at night.
AM:
Step 1: Cleanse
In the morning, use a light cleanser to gently remove any dirt or oils that have built up on your skin throughout the night. Our range of gel, mousse or foam cleansers will leave your skin feeling refreshed and ready for the next steps in your morning routine.
Step 2: Vitamin C
A non-negotiable in any morning skincare routine, vitamin C helps to protect your skin against damaging environmental stressors. Our range of vitamin C products have been expertly formulated with scientifically proven forms of vitamin C in stabilised formulations. Whether you’re looking for a potent serum, nourishing cream or SPF combinations, we have a product for every skin concern and type.
Step 3: Sunscreen
Our advanced sunscreen formulas work to protect your skin against damaging UV rays and premature ageing. Daily Radiance Vitamin C provides you with your 2-in-1 vitamin C and SPF 30 protection in a hydrating day cream. Advanced Day Ultimate Protect combines your moisturiser and SPF 50+ PA++++ into one simple step.
PM:
Step 1: Double Cleanse
Thoroughly remove any makeup, dirt and impurities that have accumulated on your skin throughout the day. Start by using a cream or oil cleanser to gently melt away heavy makeup and impurities, and follow with a foam or gel cleanser to target any specific skin concerns.
Step 2: Apply your chosen retinol product
With Intelligent Retinol serums, massage 4 drops across the face, neck and décolletage. Allow to absorb and then follow with a nourishing moisturiser such as Advanced Night Restore, which has been expertly designed to be used after vitamin A. If you’re using Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream, there is no need to apply Advanced Night Restore afterwards. Simply massage a small amount across the face, neck and décolletage. If using an Intelligent Retinol serum, do not combine it with Intelligent Smoothing Night Cream as you would be using too much vitamin A at once which could cause your skin to become irritated.
Step 3: Apply sunscreen in the morning
Vitamin A can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, therefore it is important that you use sunscreen the following morning while using retinoids (and all year round) to help keep your skin protected against premature ageing.
Increasing the strength of your retinol
It is important not to increase the strength of your retinol too quickly, as this may cause your skin to become irritated. We recommend that if you have used your current retinol strength for 6 weeks (roughly 1 tube or bottle), and you have used it every night for the last week without any sensitivity, then you’re ready to move up to the next strength.
There’s no need to phase the product into your routine, as your skin will have become used to the vitamin A molecule. However, if you feel any sensitivity as you increase the strength of your retinol, you can reduce how much product you apply, or apply it every other night to begin with. Low and slow is our advice.
Which retinal strength is right for me?
Retinal (also known as retinaldehyde) is our ‘everyone vitamin A’. It is further along the vitamin A pathway than retinol, and is just one conversion step away from becoming retinoic acid. As a result, it acts 11x faster than retinol[1] - making it the most powerful form of vitamin A that you can buy without a prescription. Retinal helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve texture, radiance and boost skin cell renewal for a visibly brighter, firmer and smoother-looking complexion.
Retinal is difficult to stabilise and degrades quickly. As a result, it is rare to find retinal products that deliver true visible age-defying results. Our groundbreaking Crystal Retinal
serum has been expertly formulated with our unique patented stabilisation technology to ensure optimum potency for maximum results. Available in 5 progressive strengths (0.01% - 0.2% retinaldehyde), this next-generation vitamin A formula allows you to work your way up for progressive visible results and no irritation - making it suitable for everyone.
✓ Retinal for beginners: Crystal Retinal 1, Crystal Retinal 3
✓ Retinal for expert users: Crystal Retinal 6
✓ Retinal for advanced users: Crystal Retinal 10, Crystal Retinal 20
How much retinal should I use?
Retinal application should be phased-in gradually. Therefore, if you’re a retinal beginner, we recommend that you start by using your chosen product twice a week for the first 2 weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night.
How to use retinaldehyde
AM:
Step 1: Cleanse
In the morning, use a light cleanser to gently remove any dirt or oils that have built up on your skin throughout the night. Our range of gel, mousse or foam cleansers will leave your skin feeling refreshed and ready for the next steps in your morning routine.
Step 2: Vitamin C
A non-negotiable in any morning skincare routine, vitamin C helps to protect your skin against damaging environmental stressors. Our range of vitamin C products have been expertly formulated with scientifically proven forms of vitamin C in stabilised formulations. Whether you’re looking for a potent serum, nourishing cream or SPF combinations, we have a product for every skin concern and type.
Step 3: Sunscreen
Our advanced sunscreen formulas work to protect your skin against damaging UV rays and premature ageing. Daily Radiance Vitamin C provides you with your 2-in-1 vitamin C and SPF 30 protection in a hydrating day cream. Advanced Day Ultimate Protect combines your moisturiser and SPF 50+ PA++++ into one simple step.
PM:
Step 1: Double Cleanse
Thoroughly remove any makeup, dirt and impurities that have accumulated on your skin throughout the day. Start by using a cream or oil cleanser to gently melt away heavy makeup and impurities, and follow with a foam or gel cleanser to target any specific skin concerns.
Step 2: Apply your retinal
After cleansing in the evening, apply 2 pumps (around 2 pea-sized amounts) of Crystal Retinal. You only need to apply a thin layer for it to be effective. If your skin is feeling dry or you experience some irritation, follow with a moisturiser such as Advanced Night Restore to help nourish and soothe the skin.
Step 3: Apply sunscreen in the morning
Retinal can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, therefore it is important that you use sunscreen the following morning to protect against damaging UV rays.
Increase the strength of retinal
As mentioned previously, we always recommend not to increase the strength of your chosen vitamin A formula too quickly, as this can trigger your skin to become irritated and sensitive. If you have used your current Crystal Retinal strength for 6 weeks (roughly 1 tube or bottle) and you have used it every night for the last week without experiencing any sensitivity, then you’re ready to move onto the next strength.
However, different rules apply when using Crystal Retinal 20, as it should only be used by those who have comfortably finished at least 2 tubes of Crystal Retinal 10, due to it containing a very high percentage of retinal (0.2%).
Again, when moving up the ladder to different strengths, unless you experience some sensitivity, there’s no need to phase the product into your routine as your skin will already be used to the vitamin A molecule.
Which is stronger retinol or retinal?
At Medik8, we always recommend everyone to use retinal as it is a more powerful form of vitamin A when compared to retinol - for quicker visible results. The main reason why someone might prefer to use a retinol product instead, is if they prefer a silky, oil-like texture.
Additionally, unlike retinol, retinal has antibacterial properties, meaning that it can help fight the bacteria that causes breakouts and clogged pores to support a visibly clarified, clearer-looking complexion.
Should I switch from retinol to retinal?
If you’re already using Medik8’s retinol formulas, when switching to retinal, we recommend phasing it into your routine to help reduce any potential for irritation. Follow our simple guide below on how to successfully switch from retinol to retinal.
✓ If using Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream, you can switch to Crystal Retinal 3
(use Crystal Retinal 1 if you have very sensitive skin).
✓ If using Intelligent Retinol 3TR, switch to Crystal Retinal 3.
✓ If using Intelligent Retinol 6TR, switch to Crystal Retinal 6.
✓ If using Intelligent Retinol 10TR, switch to Crystal Retinal 10.
Does a higher retinoid strength mean better results?
No matter which vitamin A molecule you use, we always recommend to start on the lowest strength and then gradually work your way up from there. The more you increase the percentage of the vitamin A molecule, the more your visible results will begin to increase.
How often should you use retinoids?
As mentioned previously, if you’re new to retinoids we recommend introducing the product slowly and gradually into your routine. Start by using it twice a week for the first 2 weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night.
The importance of SPF, even with a lower retinoid strength
At Medik8, we advocate daily sunscreen application as an essential part of maintaining a healthy, youthful-looking complexion. Sunscreen should be a non-negotiable in every age-defying skincare routine, as UV rays can easily penetrate through clouds and glass. A high-performance sunscreen shields the skin against visible signs of ageing including fine lines and wrinkles, loss of firmness, elasticity and dark spots, as well as protecting against the harmful effects of UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) rays.
All retinoids, no matter their strength, can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun’s harmful UV rays. Our next-generation sunscreen formulas are expertly created to ensure powerful, all-encompassing UV protection that feels lightweight, hydrating and non-greasy on the skin - making them perfect for everyday use.
Medik8’s recommended vitamin A products
Crystal Retinal
Our bestselling and groundbreaking Crystal Retinal serum is clinically proven to provide incredible age-defying results in just 1 tube[2] for a visibly firmer, brighter and smoother-looking complexion.
Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye
Wake up to a more youthful-looking eye area with this world-first, clinically proven nighttime eye cream that visibly brightens, smoothes and reduces the appearance of puffiness and crow’s feet. Available in 3 progressive strengths (3, 6 and 10) you can match your current Crystal Retinal strength to Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye.
r-Retinoate Day & Night
Exclusive to Medik8, retinyl retinoate is an advanced retinoid that offers powerful age-defying results while remaining ultra gentle, even on the most sensitive skin types. 8 times more powerful than retinol[3], unlike other vitamin A molecules, retinyl retinoate can be used in your daytime skincare routine as it is photostable - meaning that it won’t break down when exposed to sunlight. As a result, you can use it in your morning and evening routine.
r-Retinoate Day & Night is a luxurious, multi-step serum that combines vitamin A with a stabilised and gentle form of vitamin C (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) and hyaluronic acid to visibly enhance the skin’s radiance, tone and texture while providing daily antioxidant protection.
Although it is suitable for use both day and night, always ensure to apply sunscreen after using r-Retinoate Day & Night in your morning routine as vitamin A can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.
r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye
This indulgent eye serum smooths the look of eye contours and visibly improves puffiness and dark circles - all while remaining gentle on the delicate eye area. Suitable for use both in the morning and evening, expect a visibly smoother, brighter and more awakened eye area.
When using r-Retinoate Day & Night Eye in your morning routine, apply Advanced Day Eye Protect on top to help shield the delicate eye area from the sun’s harmful rays.
FAQ's
Acting 11x faster than retinol[1], retinal is the most potent form of vitamin A available without a prescription - making it our favourite vitamin A molecule.
All percentages of vitamin A will provide visible results on the skin. However, the more you increase the percentage, the more visible results begin to increase. If you’re a vitamin A beginner, we always recommend to start on the lowest strength and gradually work your way up. This helps to reduce any irritation potential, so that you can achieve the very best visible results.
If you’re new to retinal, starting at 0.1% (Crystal Retinal 10) may cause your skin to become irritated, sensitive and dry. We always recommend to start on the lowest strength and gradually work your way up the Crystal Retinal ladder.
Absolutely! If you’re already using Medik8’s retinol formulas, then you can easily switch to using retinal. However, when switching to a different vitamin A molecule, we always suggest that you phase it into your routine to help reduce any irritation potential. For example, if you have been using Intelligent Retinol 3TR and you want to switch to Crystal Retinal 3, simply phase it into your routine by using it twice a week for the first 2 weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night. Once your skin has become used to retinal, you can work your way up the Crystal Retinal ladder.
At Medik8, we always recommend retinal over retinol as it is the strongest form of vitamin A available that you can buy without a prescription. Acting 11x faster than retinol[1], you will be able to see visible youth-renewing results much faster than if you were to use retinol.
Retinal is the most potent form of vitamin A that you can buy without a prescription. Therefore, we always recommend that you use retinal rather than retinol for faster visible results.
Although retinal is closer to the active form of retinoic acid, retinal has been proven to have the same low irritation potential as retinol. Therefore, you can use a more potent product without compromising on your skin’s comfort. Our Crystal Retinal serums have been formulated with our patented stability complex, and we encapsulate retinal to ensure that the molecule’s potency is preserved, but also that it is gradually released into the skin during the night to minimise the risk of irritation and sensitivity.
Crystal Retinal 20 is Medik8’s strongest retinal product that is only suitable for advanced vitamin A users. Crystal Retinal 20 should only be used by those who have comfortably finished at least 2 tubes of Crystal Retinal 10, as it contains a very high strength of retinal (0.2%).
Crystal Retinal 20 features 0.2% retinal, making it Medik8’s strongest retinal product that is only suitable for advanced vitamin A users who have comfortably finished at least 2 tubes of Crystal Retinal 10.
[1]G. Siegenthaler et al., Retinol and retinal metabolism, Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378
[2]Proven via independent clinical study on 1 tube of Crystal Retinal 6. Tested on 33 participants over 12 weeks.
[3]H. Kim et al., Synthesis and in vitro biological activity of retinyl retinoate, a novel hybrid retinoid derivative, Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, 15;16(12), pp 6387-93
Heleayner Davies
Heleayner has been a digital copywriter for over 4 years, and has a strong passion for wellness, beauty and coffee (specifically frothy cappuccinos). She loves skincare, and is always looking for anything that will promise her radiant, glowing skin.