Glycolic Acid and Retinol: Can They Be Used Together?

Glycolic acid and retinol are two of the skincare world’s heaviest hitters, and over the past few years both ingredients have been growing in popularity. Chances are you have at least one - if not both - in your current skincare routine and it probably comes as no surprise to hear that they are powerful active ingredients.

Used properly, retinol and glycolic acid have an unrivalled ability to improve both the appearance and overall health of your skin, but, depending on your skin type and main concerns, one may be better than the other, or you could benefit from pairing them together.

Here, we’ve broken down the benefits of both ingredients and how to use them. Keep reading to find out what’s best for your skin.

What does glycolic acid do?

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It works to exfoliate the skin, removing dead cells sitting on the surface while improving skin texture. It’s found in a variety of products, from cleansers to masks and toners and is a versatile ingredient that works quickly and across various skin types, but it is particularly beneficial for those with dull, rough or ageing skin.

Glycolic acid is best used in the evening and it’s vital to follow up with sunscreen the following morning to prevent sensitivity or skin damage.

The benefits of using glycolic acid include:

✓ Exfoliation: glycolic acid loosens the glue that holds dead skin cells together on the surface, allowing them to be more easily removed to reveal newer, fresher skin.

✓ Improved skin texture: the removal of dead skin cells helps make skin softer and smoother.

✓ Unclogged pores: glycolic acid is able to penetrate pores, working to help unclog them – which is especially beneficial for those with acne-prone skin, or anybody who’s prone to black and whiteheads.

✓ Stimulates collagen production: regularly incorporating glycolic acid into your routine stimulates collagen production, leading to the improved appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

✓ Enhanced product penetration: by getting rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, glycolic acid can improve the effectiveness of other skincare products.

What does retinol do?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A found in night time creams and serums. It’s considered the gold standard of skincare due to its incredible ability to stimulate collagen production, improve texture, increase skin cell turnover and fade pigmentation amongst other things.

Suitable for almost all skin types, retinol is a versatile ingredient that addresses a range of concerns, however it’s important to incorporate it into your evening routine gradually – we recommend using it twice a week for the first two weeks, every other night for the next 2 weeks, then every night.

The benefits of retinol include:

✓ Stimulates collagen production: our collagen levels deplete as we age causing fine lines and wrinkles, but using retinol helps boost its production to smooth and firm skin.

✓ Increases skin cell turnover: retinol speeds up the speed of skin cell turnover, leading to smoother, brighter, more even-toned and refined skin.

✓ Unclogs pores: by penetrating deeply into the skin, retinol can unclog pores and reduce acne and breakouts, as well as the formation of both black and whiteheads.

✓ Fades pigmentation: retinol targets dark spots, sunspots and other forms of hyperpigmentation by shedding pigmented cells and encouraging the growth of fresh new ones.

✓ Boosts hydration: over time, retinol improves the skin’s ability to retain moisture, making it softer and more hydrated.

How does retinal compare?

Retinal and retinol are often confused, but they are two different derivatives of vitamin A. In short, retinal works 11x faster than retinol* and is less irritating on skin, which is why we typically recommend that everybody uses it. However, if you prefer to use an oil-based liquid product, we would suggest trying our retinol serums.

Glycolic acid vs retinol

Both ingredients are potent, but they work in different ways and address different concerns. Glycolic acid is primarily an exfoliant that works on the surface levels of the skin and is tolerated by most people. It works to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, helping them to shed which improves skin texture, unclogs pores and evens out skin tone. Retinol, however, works on the deeper layers and is a stronger ingredient that should be gradually introduced into a routine to allow skin to adjust. It works to stimulate collagen production and increase skin cell turnover, helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fade pigmentation.

Before you decide which one is best for you, it’s important to consider your skin type, your individual concerns and your existing skincare routine. If you want to target oiliness, uneven texture and clogged pores then glycolic acid may be the ingredient for you, but if you want to reduce lines and wrinkles and address pigmentation then retinol is the one to consider.

So, which is better: glycolic acid or retinol

You really don’t have to choose between glycolic acid or retinol if you don’t want – instead, it’s about finding a way to use them together to benefit your skin. However, if you do only want to use one, then it depends what skin concerns you want ton target.

Use glycolic acid if:
- You have sensitive skin
- You have oily, textured or dull skin
- You’re pregnant or breastfeeding.

Use retinol if:
- You have acne or blemish-prone skin
- You want to treat signs of ageing
- You have sun damage, dark spots or hyperpigmentation

Can glycolic acid be used with retinol?

The short answer is yes, you can use glycolic acid and retinol together in the same routine. It’s also worth knowing that all Medik8’s exfoliating acid-based products work perfectly with retinol, and over time they will help strengthen the skin’s barrier.

However, it’s important to be mindful because they are both potent ingredients and always introduce them into your routine gradually, especially if you have sensitive skin. It’s also best to use them on alternating evenings at first, and ensure you pay close attention to how your skin reacts – if you notice any irritation, redness or sensitivity, scale back your usage.

Potential risks of using retinoids and glycolic acid

There’s no denying the incredible benefits of using retinol and glycolic acid, however there are some risks associated with using them – especially if you don’t follow proper instructions.

Possible side effects to look out for include:

- Skin irritation and redness
- Increased sun sensitivity
- Dryness and peeling

How to use retinol and glycolic acid in your skincare routine

Now we’ve established that using retinol and glycolic acid in a routine can be highly effective, the key is now to find out how to use them safely. Below is an example routine that incorporates both ingredients:

AM (Monday-Sunday)
- Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse
- Medik8 C-Tetra Vitamin C Serum
- Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect SPF50

PM (Monday-Saturday)
- Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse
- Medik8 Crystal Retinal (every second night)
- Medik8 Advanced Night Restore

PM (Sunday)
- Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse
- Medik8 Sleep Glycolic
- Medik8 Advanced Night Restore

Choosing your glycolic acid and retinol products

There’s a lot of choice when it comes to glycolic and retinol products, and there are a few things to consider, including strength of the product, the texture, formulation and any other additional ingredients that might be used to complement the actives.

Medik8’s formulas are always research-backed and are suitable for most skin types, no matter whether you’re a seasoned pro or are new to using a particular ingredient. Sleep Glycolic is a leave-on treatment that delivers quick results overnight, without causing redness or irritation that’s best used twice a week. Crystal Retinal is our hero vitamin A serum that works 11x faster than retinol* and is available in varying strengths so you can work your way up the ladder.

If it’s an entry-level moisturiser you’re looking for, Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream might be the one for you: combining 0.2% slow-release retinol with nourishing antioxidants, it’ll moisturise while gently smoothing and refining skin. Our original Intelligent Retinol formula uses squalane alongside time release technology and a choice of three strengths that are gentle yet promise powerful results on all skin types. Finally, Balance Moisturiser & Glycolic Acid Activator combines a daily use mattifying moisturiser with a glycolic acid activator designed to be applied 2-3 times a week to gently exfoliate and smooth the skin’s surface.

To takeaway

In summary, glycolic acid and retinol are two potent active ingredients that all skin types can benefit from using. When used correctly, both are safe and effective to use as part of the same routine but we would recommend figuring out your individual skin goals and working out what is best for you – it’s also perfectly fine to use one or the other if necessary.

All of Medik8’s retinol and exfoliating acid products are formulated to work in conjunction with each other to help strengthen skin and make it more resilient. However, we always recommend introducing both types of ingredient slowly into your routine and ensure that you keep an eye on skin after use so you’re aware of any reactions or changes that may occur.

^{*G. Siegenthaler et al., Retinol and retinal metabolism, Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378}